Additional comments from the present (Sep. 3, 2019): Just want to provide some context for the next series of entires. In August of 2018 I took a work trip to Hiroshima, Japan. I also had the opportunity to extend my stay for five additional days, so of course I did that. Just like Patagonia this originally appeared on my FaceBook page, so I’m moving the trip to here. I promise we’ll get to current happenings soon. 

July 31 – August 1, 2018

Today (yesterday and today?) has been long, and it isn’t over. It’s 17:50-ish as I write this and I still need to find dinner at some point.

Planes, trains, and automobiles (the part of the automobile will be played by a bus)!

My flight from LAX to Tokyo was business class on ANA, and it was radtastic. I got my own pod, three windows, and a ton of room. The service on ANA was impeccable. Absolutely top notch.

I got some snacks, had a few Suntory Hibiki whiskys, ate some udon, watched an awful movie (I don’t even remember what it was). After that I laid my bed flat, and slept.

At least I tried. It was fitful, at best. A bigger pillow would have helped. I should have asked. Or grabbed another. The flight had an odd amount of empty seats.

Anyhow, eventually I got up, and was served an entire “post-nap” meal. I chose the Japanese option. Was not let down. It was actually too much to finish, but it was tasty.

Landed in Tokyo, went through customs, aced the test first try.

Japan officially let me in the country. Did the weird recheck of the bag, followed by a bus ride to the domestic terminal, followed by waiting. Which I filled by wandering the terminal looking for an ATM.

An ATM I eventually located, but learned was busted. Awesome. Each vending machine I passed taunted me. Had to settle from a bottle of water from one of the many stores that finally opened (I was at the airport super early in the AM).

The flight to Hiroshima was quick, painless, and allowed me some sleep. More empty seats that awarded me a full row to myself. That’s never a bad thing.

I did wake up enough to see the airport, which says “Hiroshima” on the ground next to the runway. The airport runway actually extends off a cliff, and there is a really long… scaffold of sorts I suppose that’s been painted bright orange and extends out off the runway. If anyone has any idea what it is and why it is… I’m all ears.

Embarrassingly, I could NOT figure out how to buy a bus ticket with no cash. I think someone told me, but I forgot. Soooo… I ended up asking for help at the info desk, and the woman went with me to make it all happen. Everyone I’ve encountered on this trip this far has been truly kind.

45 minutes later and I was at Hiroshima Station, headed towards the Sheraton. But I made a detour first, and headed into the station for some supplies. Finally found a working ATM, and picked up an ICOCA card (essentially a prepaid card for the trains/streetcars/etc) that I’ll use the whole trip.

Because it was barely 10am my room wasn’t ready. Even though it was so early, I unfortunately missed my appointment to see the Mazda Museum, which just means I’ll have to come back at some point.

With a wide open agenda, and some unearned confidence (I had to ask someone to help buy the IC card, too) I headed back into the train station to find a street car. To be honest, once I got my bearings it was pretty easy to get around. There is a lot of English signage as well.

I also bought some sweat. Pocari Sweat to be exact. As near as I can figure out it’s some sports drink that does not taste like sweat. It’s good, but I’m not totally certain what the actual flavor is. 7.5/10, will drink again.

The dome. THE dome. You get off the street car, wonder for a second where to go, look left, and BAM! There it is. For some reason I expected it to be more isolated. I don’t know why, I just did.

As I walked up there was an obvious feeling in the air. The cicadas were insanely loud. Everything just felt… weird. I walked around. Took a lot of pictures. But I also just sat and looked more than I usually would. Watching people looking at the dome was interesting. The range was huge. Nationalities as well as reactions.

I spoke to a survivor. It was a touch surreal. He showed me pictures of what it was like after. A 4km radius simply ceased to exist at 8:15am August 6, 1945.

The dome was interesting, but the place that hit me even harder was the Hiroshima National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims. Reading the plaques, seeing the numbers, thinking through it all… harder than you might imagine. There is a round room that represents the 140,000 people that died in 1945 alone. I don’t even have the right words.

That and the “arch” (I’ll remember the right word eventually) that frames an eternal flame and the dome. Those two places were the most difficult.

I had to shift gears, so I purchased a boat ticket to Miyajima from the terminal near the dome. Another 45 minute ride, this time on water, and I arrived.

Miyajima is an island in Hiroshima bay that is known for its woods, and temples. The Great Torii Gate sits just offshore and marks the entrance to the Itsukushima Shrine, which happens to be a world heritage site.

I wandered the streets. Had an ice cream and a beer for a snack. Grabbed some Miyajima de Gansu (fish and veg fried in a patty, completely amazing). Hung out with some deer. The island is also home to wild deer that chill with the visitors. It’s pretty cool. I watched more than one attempt to thieve people’s snacks. Comedy.

Found a little place for lunch, and ate the most amazing Katsudon I’ve ever had. Not that I’m an expert or anything.

I visited the Itsukushima Shrine as well before saying goodbye to Miyajima. A quick ferry, another 45 minute train ride, and my room was finally ready.

Which brings us to about now, and I’m starving again. Seven hours of walking a city will build an appetite.

I apologize for the insanely long entry, but it was a long day (2?). Plus, the next few days entries will be very short. Work meetings coming up.

Before I go… it is hot. Like, insanely hot. And humid. I don’t know how it’s possible to sweat SO much. Not looking forward to business attire.

Night, people. At least the one person still reading.

Additional comments from the present (Aug. 29, 2019): This is the final entry in The Great Patagonia Adventure. I’ll be adding other trips soon!

Jan. 6, 2018

Hello again, everyone! Buckle in… this one is long.

Today was different. It was a days of lasts. The last time buckling my boots. The last tear down some ripio roads. The last ride on that bike at all. Lasts. Fin.

Patagonia is a land of extremes. Extreme weather. Extreme sights. Extreme emotions. Extreme highs. Extreme lows.

Patagonia, when taken on alone, is a place that forces you to adapt. Improvise. Overcome. For your efforts you are rewarded immensely. In scenery. In the kindness of it’s people. In the bounties it provides. In discovery – both of a magical place as well as personal.

Patagonia knew today was a day of lasts, and she was determined to make sure last didn’t mean disappointment.

The morning was drizzly. Overcast. Decently warm. All things I’ve come to associate with Patagonian mornings. Well, minus the warm (14.5c!).

Because I knew my time was slowly coming to an end I savored the morning. I took my time. There was no hurry today. Not on this day of lasts.

I didn’t throw a leg over the bike until nearly 11am. Like I said, no hurries today.

I left my hotel, climbing up the overlooking road, taking one final glance at the valley I was fortunate enough to call home for one night. Less than 2 kilometers away I pulled up to the Parque Nacional Torres del Paine ranger station.

The plan for this lazy morning was a big loop through the park, then back to Puerto Natales. The last destination on the trip.

The entry fee is a hefty 21,000 Chilean Pesos, but I paid it gladly. It would end up being worth every penny.

As you go along in the park you work your way every closer to the mountains that were distant the day before. Gorgeous in the sunlight, they looked even more amazing in the grayness of the day. Patagonia even stopped the rain for me nearly the whole day. Like I said, I was not to be disappointed today.

The first spot I stopped overlooked a lake with mountains everywhere in the background. I was blown away. So much so that I spent at least half an hour just staring. Taking it all in.

The park moves you closer and closer to the giant towers before it finally pushes you away, onto other landscapes. I stopped as often as I could, but some of the riding was just too good. Committing the scenery to memory would have to suffice.

Honestly, a few spots were so amazing I nearly rode off the road. It’s incredible. These massive, jagged, sharp mountains towering over everything. Hiding glaciers. Covered in snow. Lakes laid out at their bases. Truly something to behold.

Quite a few roads were closed so my loop became longer. I didn’t mind at all. The meadows and hills I discovered as I turned away from the hulking spires provided a nice contrast. Some softness to the day.

I found fields covered in flowers. Herds of guanacos, closer than ever (sometimes too close). More lakes. Every turn revealing another gem. The entire time nearly alone. Perfect.

I had lunch at this place called El Ovejero in Cerro Castillo. Apparently a popular place that also sells souvenirs and things. Decent sandwich of beef and avocado. Something I noticed here is the bread… it’s all terrible. Crumbly. Dry. Not sure what the deal is there. That is not a magical part of Patagonia.

After lunch it was mostly asphalt back to Puerto Natales. Asphalt punctuated by sections of ripio 3-100 meters long. For no reason. At all. None.

The roadside was still beautiful, giving me plenty to see on the way to my destination. The last hotel of the trip.

As I neared the port town the rains began again. Just in time. While I rode through yesterday, I decided to do a bit of poking around. I wasn’t ready to be done. Not quite yet.

I fueled up, wandered aimlessly, before finally facing the inevitable. The last press of the stop button.

That’s it. The trip is over. There are more last’s to be had – dinner, sleep, etc. But each one draws me closer and closer to home.

Home. A place I’m both ready and not ready for. A place I both miss and don’t. If only this adventure could continue forever.

I hope everyone enjoyed the images, the thoughts, the ramblings. Thank you for following along for the last time. Of this adventure. There will be more. Always.

If you do one thing in your life discover Patagonia. Do it any way you’re able, by any means of conveyance. Do it by Segway if that’s what works for you. Just do it. Sooner than later.

I put some pictures of my gear as well, as a few people mentioned they were curious. Let me know if you have questions. It doesn’t look like much (maybe it does?), but I could pare it down a bit further. Almost everything was used.

Signing off from Patagonia,
Ryan

P.S. final count: 4,572 kilometers. 2,841 miles.

Additional comments from the present (Aug. 29, 2019): the next day I had to catch a taxi to take me to a bus station, which then dropped me off at the Punta Arenas airport. I landed in Santiago with just enough time to collect my bags, cut the entire customs line, and catch my flight to Mexico City. I barely made it.

My layover in Mexico City was almost 7 hours. Not quite enough time to leave the airport, but certainly enough time to be slightly miserable. At least the airport is nice, the food is excellent, and Dakar is actually shown in Mexico. I also got to fly on a Dreamliner.

The rest of the trip home was pretty uneventful. Such an amazing adventure, and I wouldn’t trade it for the world.

Jan. 5, 2018

Hi, everyone! It’s the second to last day with the bike today. A sad day in many ways. It’s almost totally over.

This morning left a lot to be desired. I barely slept. It was fairly cold. The cold decided to invite rain. Then wind showed up… with an ax to grind. Wow.

The wind was insane today. I know I said that before, but man… unbelievable. It never relented all morning. As another added difference it was coming from the left now! Mostly because I was winding my way north instead of south.

Incidentally, today would send me nearly as far north as El Calafate, but on the Chilean side of things.

Because of the wind, and rain I took NO pictures all morning. I wanted to. The rolling hills were covered in wildflowers. The trees had moss in them. In some spots a solitary tree watched over the fields. So beautiful. Sort of haunting in a few spots. At least I got to see it, even if I can’t share.

Getting to Puerto Natales for fuel was an absolute slog. So much work to stay on the road. However, I did ride with another guy for a few hours. We chatted at the gas station. Another Brazilian. We rode for about fifteen minutes after fuel as well before parting ways.

The first shot below was taken in Puerto Natales, but I’m not totally sure what lake it is. I’m staying there tomorrow so I’ll find out.

As one heads north in Chile the scenery turns back to amazing as mountains rise out of nowhere.

The road I needed was closed, so a detour it was. I headed out more gravel roads towards Parque Nacional Torres del Paine.

There are some caves not too far along that are part of a national monument, the biggest cave is the Cueva del Milodon. You can pay to hike out, but I wasn’t feeling up to it. I did read some signs and things. Seemed alright.

As you go the scenery just gets more and more amazing. At one point I yelled “come on!” It seriously doesn’t stop. At times it makes riding hard because you’re staring at everything but the road.

I took my time reaching my hotel, which is basically IN the park. In it. Down in a valley. It’s unreal. Absolutely unreal.

The road to access the area rises above first and you can see the whole valley laid out in front of you. I sat on the edge of the cliff and just started at everything for a good 30 minutes or more (the video is from up there). Breathtaking. Nearly literally.

It’s hard to believe you can actually stay in a place like this. Everywhere you look you’re blown over. It’s insane. I love it.

I also noticed they’re cooking some lambs. I’m very much looking forward to that. So hungry! Only 45 minutes until dinner starts.

Gonna go wander outside in spite of the cold. Can’t get enough of be views.

-Ryan

P.S. great WiFi for being in the middle of nowhere!

Jan. 4, 2018

Feliz jueves, my internet buddies!

Today can be summed up in one word: divertida! That’s your Spanish word for today. It means fun. I think. Probably. Let’s say it does.

Woke up this morning at 5:30 to be ready to ride by 7. Let’s all understand that means I was actually out of bed at 6:15. I’m not trying to lie about it. I was still ready to roll at 7.

And roll I did. Right back into the drizzly cold. Boo! I left Rio Grande behind and hightailed it to the border 73km away. I was heading back to Chile for the final border crossing of the trip (I believe it has been six total).

As I approached the San Sebastián border crossing something fantastic happened… the skies began to clear and the temps went up. A very welcome change of events.

After the crossing the road is all ripio into Porvenir. A good part of it (at least 40k) is a construction zone and it had rained. Everything had turned to either clay or mud. As long as I could get around the cars I was having an absolutely fantastic time. Being behind someone meant a fine mist of mud, which sucked.

A mist that absolutely covered everything. All of it.

After making it past the wet section the rest of the road was fast, sweeping gravel with not a single car going my way. I saw maybe 5 total, all heading the opposite direction. Absolutely amazing riding along Bahia Inutil.

Because I’d been warned in big, bold red letters to be in Porvenir no later than 1 I made it by 11. I wasn’t even hurrying. The roads were just that much fun to blast down. I even stopped once or twice for pictures.

Unfortunately, and stupidly, I did run out of water. I completely forgot to buy more yesterday. So… slightly parched pulling into town. Oops.

The ferry to Punta Arenas only starts selling tickets at 1, and leaves at 2. I was first in line.

Myself and my new friends – a Swiss couple that are traveling all over the world in an amazing MAN motorhome conversion. They took me in and gave me coffee. Excellent people. Even played with their dog a bit.

Speaking of MAN trucks… there are so many all over around here. Those and similar giant expedition rigs. It’s like Dakar everywhere you turn. Love it.

So, eventually we loaded onto the ferry for the 2.5 hour ride across the Estrecho de Magallanes to Punta Arenas. This was bigger than the last boat, and had food! I got a sandwich, ate it, and promptly passed out.

So there aren’t any photos of the crossing. I took a nap. Sorry, folks. Also, sorry to the other passengers. I’m fairly sure I was snoring.

After that I fueled up, found my hotel, now just doing normal stuff. Which is why you’ll see some “odd” images below. I sort of wanted to share a bit of the daily routine, too.

Things like hosing off your waterproof luggage in the shower. Doing laundry while you shower. Things like that. A few shots I just happened to like. Some pics of random gear. A few people have asked what I have been lugging around. I’ll have to take a shot when I repack everything.

There ya have it, my day today. A very fun day. Only two more riding days left.

Though tomorrow should be pretty amazing as my destination is in the Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Looking forward to that immensely.

Time to walk around, do some sightseeing, and grab dinner.

Night, all.

-Ryan

Jan. 4, 2018 (con’t)

Tonight deserves some extra pictures. I decided to walk around and get dinner.

A cocktail, bottle of wine, and a beer later I’m at a bar the locals frequent.

This is the best.

Jan. 3, 2018

Buenos tardes, dudes and dudettes!

Your Spanish word of the day for today is: frio. Yeah, it’s not a consistent daily word. Too bad.

This morning wasn’t awful, weather wise. Sort of sprinkling. Sort of drizzling. Not super cold. Of course I bundled up anyways. Fool me once and all that.

I got an early start, leaving the hotel just before 8am. My plan was to fuel up and ride to Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego. So, I gassed up. Then I got lost.

For some reason I kept misinterpreting a sign and rode in circles all over Ushuaia. So much for that early start. Between that and getting fuel I burned nearly an hour before I finally arrived at the park.

It’s pretty amazing, but I actually had a goal: the end of Route 3 on the other side of the park. Paid my 350 pesos entry fee and off I went.

The rain continued off and on, causing the dirt (clay) roads to be slightly slick. Good thing I had some coffee with breakfast.

Worked my way through the park just meandering and enjoying the scenery. I didn’t know until I saw it, but there is a large visitor center in the park that has a cafe. More coffee sounded good and I needed somewhere dry to check something…

That something? An equipment glitch. The Pinloc on my visor (it’s something that essentially creates a double-paned window to prevent fogging) was having issues and… fogging. The opposite of what it’s supposed to do. So, I took apart my helmet, which I needed to do anyhow to check it out. Reseated everything and it seems better. If it continues I’ll throw it out and use another I have with me (which is currently attached to my clear visor I never use).

The lodge, called Alakush is really neat. Has a museum. A gift shop. Cafe, as mentioned previously. Everyone was very friendly. The girl at reception even stamped my passport, and some postcards I had on me. Excellent.

After that I rode deeper into the park where the scenery got even cooler. Very beautiful. Crossed a few bridges, climbed a few hills, crossed some muddy bits. All good fun.

Eventually I arrived at the end of Route 3. Made it all the way. Had someone take a picture of me to prove it!

There was a huge group of Chinese tourists all seeing the park before heading to the South Pole. How do I know that? A large contingent of them approached me for pictures. Not “take one of me”, but “is it ok to take a picture of you and your bike?” They thought I was some sort of rockstar (not incorrect). Pretty funny. So I posed for pictures, chatted a bit. Offered to trade someone places so I could go to the South Pole. Good fun.

Just before leaving the park I met a guy in a Jeep with Ontario plates. Chatted with him a bit. Turns out he’s been on the road nearly 5 years! All of the America’s. He’d previously been an engineer in Silicon Valley and was able to retire early. Jealous! Super nice guy. Wish I’d swapped info with him. Good luck, my Canadian friend!

After that it was time to hit the road north. Rain was starting to come down and the park roads were turning into slip and slides. Not my favorite, but I managed.

As I worked my way out of Ushuaia the road climbed once again into the mountains. Gorgeous in spite of the rain. And cold. It was getting cold. Forgot to mention, but I’d also taken my balaclava off. Idiot!

As I climbed higher the temperature dipped lower. The mountains that were bare yesterday now looked like they were being dusted with powdered sugar. Actively. As I watched. I mention it was frio (your word of the day!)?

The temps just kept dropping. I actually rode through small snow flurry just before entering the clouds. My dash threw up a snowflake icon, and the readout said 2c. Then it started flashing. So cold.

And the rain never let up. It was cold, pouring, and I wasn’t sure how much longer I could deal with the frigid temps, but I also knew there was nowhere dry to stop. Not until Tolhuin.

It’s amazing how one can channel his or her inner Rossi when it means getting out of the cold. I hightailed it to Tolhuin in record time. Dancing just on the edge of what’s possible in the rain. At least for me. Super fun, even if mostly frozen.

As soon as I started coming down the mountain the winds returned, which added another layer of cold. It isn’t because the wind reaches my skin, it doesn’t. It’s because the wind makes the surface of my gear cold, and that robs my heat. Laying as close to the bike as possible is the only way to mitigate the problem.

I had lunch in Tolhuin at what amounts to a truck stop of sorts. My salami and cheese sandwich was just fine. Spent some time getting warm before making the final run to Rio Grande.

I’m staying at a hotel/casino tonight. I haven’t been in the casino, but I can only imagine. It’s still pouring outside so I’ll likely sit tight here for dinner.

Early to bed tonight. Need to leave by 7am. Have to cross back to Chile, then haul buns to catch a boat, which will take me across the Magallanes Stretch again to Punta Arenas.

The final three days start tomorrow. Wow. Wishing this could go on forever.

Gonna go take another hot shower. Night, everyone.

-Ryan

Jan. 2, 2018

I don’t really know how to start today’s entry. A lot of emotion tied to today. I think I’ll start towards the end, like Tarantino would do.

On January 2, 2018 I crossed an item off my bucket list (2018 has been awesome, that’s 3 things knocked out already). I reached what many adventure riders consider the ultimate destination – Ushuaia. Also called Fin del Mundo, or End of the World.

Nestled between the Martial Mountains and the Beagle Channel, Ushuaia is a port town. The city itself isn’t amazing to look at in many ways, but the scenery is absolutely awe inspiring.

Ok, now back to the beginning…

This morning was sunny! I was amazed. And lulled into a false sense of warmth. I had my usual coffee and eggs for breakfast before donning my gear and hitting the road. The sun being out meant I’d choose to forgo my upper base layer and balaclava, which would prove a stupid choice.

It. Was. Freezing. Ranging between 5c and 9c all day. The wind wasn’t too bad at first, but then it kicked up something fierce. It wouldn’t be long before I was pulled over adding layers.

Typical of what I’d seen on Tierra del Fuego so far the landscape was fairly flat and barren. It eventually gave to gently rolling hills.

Even though it was frigid the clouds were amazing. Except when they were blocking the sun. Crazy how different a bit of light makes things.

I sped south from Cerro Sombrero to 257 towards San Sebastián, Argentina. I had another border to cross. A cold, but uneventful ride.

At the crossing I ran into the owner of the rental company I’m using and a group he’s been guiding. They’re about two days ahead of me. Good to chat for a while, because the lines at customs were very long today for some reason.

Buying gas in Argentina used the last of my cash, which I’m actually lucky to have had. The guy spotted me a few pesos to make sure I was topped off. I didn’t even think about my Argentine peso situation until just then. It worked out, though.

From there it was a “straight” shot down Route 3. I stopped in Rio Grande to use an ATM, accidentally finding my hotel for tomorrow. Rio Grande is definitely a bigger third word city. It also feels so chaotic and crowded compared to what I’ve become used to.

Oh, I should mention it has started to rain. Hard. Hard enough that it felt like someone was throwing rocks at my right leg the whole time. People don’t realize, but water can hurt!

As I pushed south the scenery started to change yet again. It became more of a forest with these amazing trees, all covered in moss. My pictures don’t do it justice. The forest got more dense as I went with some trees just trunks. So beautiful.

And it kept getting better. Lago Fagnano is a sight to behold. As you go around the lake you climb into mountains that are absolutely epic. Every turn has a hidden gem waiting. It got to the point where I couldn’t believe things could continue amazing me. They did.

The mountain road is pretty dangerous as evidenced by the two overturned semis I saw. Did not see either occur, just the aftermath. Scary stuff.

Every sign post counting down the distance to Ushuaia pulled me faster towards my goal. I could already feel a small seed of triumph growing. And then I saw the gate. THE gate to Ushuaia. I’d officially arrived. I pulled over for some pictures, but mostly to soak it in.

The city itself is chaos. I’m not sure there are actually traffic rules. It’s awesome! Even if the roads are absolutely destroyed. I enjoyed it so much I went back out for a bit after finding my hotel. A hotel that sits on the Beagle Channel. I can see Isla Navarino across the way.

I have four more riding days exploring parts north in the region, but it’s bittersweet being here. Ushuaia was the ultimate goal for me, and it was an amazing adventure getting here.

A few months ago I questioned whether it would even happen. You see, I hurt my shoulder pretty bad. Bad enough that I just didn’t know if I’d be able to ride. Luckily it got better with every day. Every ice pack. Every stretch.

Leading up to this I questioned myself. My abilities. My sanity. Solo isn’t easy to do to begin with. Solo with the terrains and challenges of Patagonia? It almost broke me. I’m so thankful to have made it here. Can’t wait to see what my final days have in store.

Ryan

Jan. 1, 2018

¡Próspero Año Nuevo!

Hey everybody! Last night I attended the NYE dinner at my hotel, and was totally underwhelmed by the menu. Didn’t make sense. Elements didn’t gel. I didn’t get it. However, in order to make up for what I felt was overpriced food I definitely got my money out of the free wine. What I’m trying to say is… it was a slow start. That led to a long day, but I made it!

Not many pictures today, a day I’m theming “Get Across Argentina” because that’s exactly what I did. Nearly the entire width.

The beginning of the day was completely windless, amazingly. It wasn’t very sunny, though. Which gave way to cold and rain. The bulk of today felt like slogging up the 5 in California. Not a lot to see, and boring. Flat. Boring. Straight.

Turned a ton of kilometers today – 462 to be exact. That’s round about 287 miles. Jammin’.

Stopped for fuel in Rio Gallegos, which is on the ATLANTIC Ocean. Had some lunch. Met a group of three guys from Brazil also riding south, but on a different schedule. Super nice people. They gave me some stickers from their moto club, we all shook hands, and off I went again.

Nothing else really interesting happened until… I crossed back into Chile. I apparently went to the wrong border control at first and they sorted me out. Another 800 meters and I was in the right place.

Now, border crossings aren’t super interesting unless they bring you to Tierra del Fuego, as this one did! That’s right, I’m officially on the island! Holy crap!

Ok, technically the border crossing allowed me to reach a ferry. The ferry took me to the island. Whatever. I’m here!!

Oh, that boat also crossed the Estrecho de Magallanes. Yup, the Strait of Magellan. How dope is that? I’m just a bit excited about the whole thing.

More guanacos down here. Oh, saw a dog cross the road ahead of me 100s of kilometers from nowhere. That was odd. Tons of sheep here as well. Nothing weird until you realize they are all watching you pass. Turning their heads and everything. Sorta creepy cool.

Alright, it’s cold. Time to see if a shower will warm me up again.

Tierra del Fuego!!!!!

Dec. 31, 2017

Happy New Year Eve!

I saw a glacier, y’all! It was epic!

I’m gonna make this text short and pic heavy.

Today is my rest day in El Calafate, a town with a hip, ski resort vibe. I dig it. Sort of Aspen-ish.

Anyhow, let me tell you about today in a brief manner.

I slept in today. Until 9! It was rad. I took my time getting going. Nearly didn’t go anywhere, but I have the bike… you know I’m gonna ride.

About an hour or so to Petito Moreno glacier in Glacier National Park. 500 pesos to enter the park, which seemed like a lot, but it really wasn’t.

At first you see some ice floating in the water. That’s pretty cool. But as you keep going to start to catch glimpses of the glacier itself. Epic. So awesome.

Then you keep getting closer and it keeps getting more beautiful and awe inspiring. I sat at a turnout for about half an hour just staring and watching. Amazing.

Eventually made my way down to the marina in the park. 500 pesos for an hour tour by boat to the glacier. Double down. I’m in.

Best boat ride I’ve ever been on. We got so close. It was seriously gorgeous. The formations. The blues. The whites. The whole thing is just crazy cool.

This also happens to be one of only 3 glaciers still known to be growing. Bonus learnings for today.

I was just pumped to get close, but then… it calved! A small piece at first. Then a massive, full height piece. I was so panicked with excitement that I didn’t get my camera out in time. Just the noise was amazing.

Best way to spend NYE day ever.

Enjoy the pics. I took a zillion. So radtastic.

Before I go… here’s to a year that brought crazy changes, new challenges, new friends, new experiences, new accomplishments. Thank you all for being a part of it all.

Much love. Here’s to a 2018 that pushes you ever higher. Happy New Year, everyone.

-Ryan

Dec. 30, 2017

So… if I had to explain what the last two days have been like I’d do it like this…

It’s been like an old school Nintendo game. 8-bit glory. Allow me to explain my logic here. See, a lot of those games were basically the same level over and over with added elements to make things harder and harder.

So, following that logic yesterday was 3 levels:
1 – wind
2 – wind, and potholes.
3 – wind x 2, potholes, and guanacos.

Today was sort of the boss level adding gravel to the equation. Oh, and construction zones that were torn up sections with no workers.

But like the champion I am I kicked it’s rear. 73km of ripio and dodging all sorts of crap will wake you right up in the morning. It. Was. Epic. One of those days where you’re just on. And I was ON. Sometimes on two wheels, a couple times on 1, and maybe once or twice on none.

So. Much. Fun. So much.

That said, the road I was on is notorious for being incredibly dangerous after a rain, and I could see why. Some sections were sure to become lakes. Others slick clay fields. I’m very glad I caught it on a good day. No rain in that area all week has been a major help.

After that it was all beautiful asphalt. And wind. That’s still a thing. I spent a good part of today laid as close to the bike as I could be. Nearly in it. Seemed to not help at all, so I had that going for me. Or whatever.

I stopped for gas in Tres Lagos and met this cool group traveling in this giant, off-road bus. Brits I think. Totally awesome. More Brazilians as well. Everyone wanted to chat with me, like I was a rockstar. Everyone insisted I was crazy for doing this trip solo on a bike. One gentleman said, “he’s not crazy, mate. He’s got massive balls.” So there you have it.

As I sped towards El Calafate I crested a hill and got my first look at Lago Viedma. Wow. Just… wow. I HAD to stop at the turnout, where another surprise was waiting for me – a little fox. Dude was running about and getting pretty close. Pretty cool.

Beyond that it was mostly head down doing the work. Fighting the wind. Luckily I remembered to pack my balaclava because today was time to ninja up! The wind is just so biting and manages to find every way under your gear.

Awesome view after awesome view led me into El Calafate. I’ll be here until New Years Day. Probably indulge in their dinner tomorrow night. The hotel is called Design Suites, and it sits on a hill overlooking Lago Argentino. Beautiful, but so damn windy.

When I got here I was unloading my gear in my room and my heart sank. No passport. I tore through my things. Asked the front desk. Looked outside and halfway down the cliff. Nothing. My stomach turned over. That was it. Trip over. I gave it one last search and found it. In my jacket. A pocket I NEVER use. Thank the maker (is that my first Star Wars quote of the trip?)!

Time to have lunch and head into town. They apparently have good dinner and shopping. Because I’m a shopper, right?! Hah.

Tomorrow I’m making the trip to the local glacier. One of three still growing. Excellent.

Today is about the halfway point of my trip. I’m not sure how to feel. So much has happened. So much ahead. But every day from here brings the end nearer. Le sigh.

Later,
Ryan

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