SoCal native currently traveling the US & Canada on 2 wheels & 4. Automotive professional with a love for all things motorized, music, and writing.
www.ryancavalier.com
We again interrupt your regularly scheduled programming to remind you that today is Podcast Wednesday! That’s gonna be a thing… maybe. Episode 2 of our podcast dropped today, and it’s a another good one. I promise.
Spoiler Alert
We talk with Nathan about his highs and lows of finding and building the perfect family-friendly daily-driveable track car only to stuff it into a wall. The guys also share memorable ungrown-up car stories from their youth and touch upon some two-wheeled adventures involving stolen bikes and discussing the motorcycles they own and/or want. Once they stop talking about things with wheels, they wander off into discussing drones, cheating at smartphone apps, holiday shopping, and other random thoughts all while a chair creaks annoyingly throughout the episode (sorry!).
I stumbled upon the Reynolds Alberta Museum as I headed out of Edmonton, and it was early so… I popped in.
Really cool collection of transportation & aviation related stuff focusing on Alberta, and farm stuff. Basically, how things in Alberta changed over the decades.
They also had some rad racing stuff, and a special Honda motorcycle exhibit. Quite excellent.
Of course there were planes, gyrocopters, and helicopters as well.
These are just a few of the pictures I took. The bikes alone were fantastic to see. Everything else was bonus.
And then… I kept going towards Drumheller without any real idea of what I would find. Turns out I found another world. This place is the badlands of Alberta. You drop into a valley that feels more like Montana than Canada. Absolutely radical.
I went to the Royal Tyrrel Museum to see dinosaurs! So. Many. dinosaurs. Also, so many people. Super crowded, but worth the admission. Fascinating.
Poked around a bunch of dirt roads, discovering epic views above the valley. Photos just don’t do it justice.
Grassy
Was glad to get the new Anakee Adventure tires on the dirt. They’re going to be great for lighter gravel. The front certainly doesn’t grip like a full knob, but they’re pretty dang decent for what I’ll see the rest of the trip. Very happy. Another great tire. Though if I could afford it I’d never run anything BUT Anakee Wilds.
Another bonus of the new tires… they’re so quiet! Like… quiet. I can actually hear the bike again. Now I’m wondering if those are all normal noises.
Hmmm… Crazy thunderstorms most of the day. Pretty rad, really.
Another province today! Alberta. Northern Alberta, in fact. Staying in Edmonton for a few days.
Why for a few days? Well, bike needs maintenance. And tires. There is a dealer here, so it makes sense.
Looking forward to exploring the city. Never been here. Got an Airbnb near downtown, so that’s cool. Nice place in a meh neighborhood.
The contrast between provinces is really neat. I’ve been to southern Alberta before, in fact I’ve ridden to Calgary. I really didn’t care for the flat, windy, open prairies, so I was really pleasantly surprised at the rolling hills, woodlands, and water I discovered.
It isn’t BC, with its jagged Rockies, and dense forests. Certainly more open, and softer. Quite lovey. Oil, farming, and logging it seems.
Haven’t seen much of Edmonton yet, but will explore tomorrow. I was able to poke around some gravel roads at least.
Dinner time before I pass out. Forgot about the time change… oops.
New fluids, some valve checkery, and tires. Always tires…
Since I didn’t have a bike today, I walked to the new Royal Museum Alberta.
Awesome museum. Really loved learning about the history of this area. They currently have a Viking exhibit on loan as well, which was quite impressive. The only time the largest Viking boat has been displayed outside Europe as well.
I really took my time, reading nearly everything. In fact, I was there nearly 5 hours. I got to see a short nosed bear skeleton, also. Thank the maker those are extinct.
Going to explore some bars downtown, maybe still to the water. Luckily I’m in a walkable area.
I can’t wait to see what it’s like here during hockey season – you know I’ll be back.
July 23, 2019
Today was one of those days where reality creeps in, and you have to actually do normal things. Things like pay bills, and do laundry. Booooring!
I did pick up the bike, and then I went to the mall. That’s right… the mall. Weirdly, everyone told me to go. It was interesting, but not amazing. They have a theme park, ice rink, aquarium, and water park. Quite a large place, obviously.
Then I did the regular life stuff, so it was a bit of a bust of a day. Even so, nice to just relax some days.
Thunderstorms appear to be rolling in, so it’s muggy out anyhow. The rest of the night is going to be packing up, rearranging some stuff. Totally not exciting, but needed.
Additional comments from the present (Nov. 6, 2019): As normal there is more to this story…
July 19, 2019
Didn’t take a lot of pictures today. It was the reverse of a route I’ve already done… Whitehorse to Muncho Lake.
DC3 on a Stick
I screwed around this morning, so wasted a ton of time. Dumb. Didn’t really get rolling until nearly noon. Made for a long day.
It’s always interesting going the opposite direction. The sights are the same, but you find hidden gems you didn’t notice the first time. Saw a ton, but stopped very little.
450 miles dictated I move with some haste.
Even so, I found time for a nap (needed) in Watson Lake amongst the sign forest. Love just plopping down wherever feels right. Done that quite a bit this trip.
Great Nap Spot
There has been a real lack of large animal sightings the last week or so. And then, with about 2.5 hours to go that changed.
At first it was a bison. All by himself. Then, the floodgates opened. All the bison! All over the road. On the sides. Really awesome. Even babies. There were several small herds as I went along.
Then the bears. I beeped at one, and he looked up with a giant clump of grass in his mouth with a really dumb look on his face. It was excellent.
Saw a moose. Wish I’d been able to get a picture. Literally looked like a postcard. She was grazing in a bit of marsh, perfectly framed, and lit. Excellent.
The last animal of the day was a porcupine crossing the road ahead of me. At the most leisurely pace imaginable. Even looked at me bored. I swear he nearly yawned.
So, back to my reentry into BC real quick. There is a big sign that warns of bison, construction, etc. It also had a solicitation by the RCMP looking for dash cam footage from the Liard area for some specific dates (5 days ago I think). Wasn’t sure what it was all about until I was waiting to get through some construction. Talking to the worker I learned there was a double homicide. A couple was found stabbed to death in their van. Side of the road. Windows smashed out. Crazy. It just doesn’t seem like that would happen out here, but it does.
Additional comments from the present (Nov. 6, 2019): So the more to it that I alluded to earlier… I really hadn’t heard about anything until meeting that worker. It made things even that much weirder. My destination that day was actually Liard, nearly right where the folks were found. After hearing the news I changed my mind, and rode all the way to the lodge I had stayed in previously. Apparently, the Australian police, as well as the RCMP were also staying there. At it would turn out, I did stop to help a couple within yards of where the bodies were found. Thinking about it now makes my palms sweaty. I’d be about 24 hours behind the manhunt for a few days. Creepy.
I also helped a guy get his radiator hose fixed earlier today. Some bush repairs got him back up, and running.
445 miles today… so that was fun. Muncho Lake to Dawson Creek. Most of which I’d seen previously.
Even so, I was impressed by the amount of road work that has been done in the few weeks. It actually changed things quite a bit. The rain also brought out the flowers, so that was also nice to see.
I got caught in a gnarly storm. Big lightening. Large thunder. Many rains. I found a place to pull off to zip all my vents closed. Spoiler: it was a vault toilet. At least it was dry. Then I rode through it. It was fun, and scary, and beautiful.
Retreating Storm
Something is whack with my rear tire pressure monitor, so I checked on things at a Tim Horton’s (you’re welcome, Jay). Nothing bad, so I’ll keep ignoring it. The rear is worn crappy, and toasted however. Hope Edmonton can help.
Timmy’s!
It was just a beautiful day all around. Mostly good weather. Fantastic sights. A curved bridge. Some minor exploring.
Bridge
Historic!
I did almost run out of gas. So spaced just cruising that I… forgot. So, luckily I made it. Oops.
So… before I get started… those of you worried I wouldn’t see another glacier, rest assured. Saw many. Those that were worried I wouldn’t see more rain, rest assured. I saw plenty.
Glassy-er
Not a ton of pictures today. The rain was raining, which meant I wasn’t stopping much. However, the road was also curving, contributing to the lack of stopping.
The views were, once again, incredible. The run to Tok isn’t remarkable, but it is beautiful. Once I got here I realized I’d been here on my way in. I’m smert.
Not Bears
It eventually stopped raining, warmed up, and stayed twisting. Absolutely entertaining roads. A decent amount of construction, but that’s ok. Rest stops are good.
A lot of 30-50yd long gravel sections. I love them. Full speed ahead, captain. So. Much. Fun.
The frost heaved roads make for some interesting times, though. It’s like a video game.
So Rad
Saw sights. Rode roads. Made it to Tok. Staying in a teardrop trailer for $2 more than pitching a tent. So worth it.
No big animals, sadly. Would love to see more wildlife.
Today was a long day, but today was a fun day. Nearly 400 miles, which isn’t insane, but it certainly takes a while.
The roads out of Tok towards the Canadian border are interesting. Fantastic ribbons that create flowing, grin inducing goodness. Even if these roads are marked by the scar tissue left by harsh winters. Big holes, mixed surfaces, gravel patches, and rollercoaster heaves all make sure you attention is on the road. They’re still fast, but you’re changing lines constantly. So much like a video game.
Nothing super interesting until I hit Canada. Then it was back into the Yukon. Rode through an area recently burned, which was beautiful in its own way. Didn’t really take pictures, I was enjoying the ride. Sometimes your eyes are enough.
Cool Old Truck
Stopped in a place called Destruction Bay to have a look around. Beautiful waterfront. Neat old truck.
Destruction Bay
The abandoned buildings up here are some of my favorite sights. You could dedicate books to them. Buildings, cars, equipment. It’s really neat.
Riding along sees so many changes in the landscape. Discovered a place where the lake turns into dry sand bed. There is an island sort of stuck halfway between the two. Such a great place to sit, just soaking it all in.
Explored some roads around the area. Hit a dead end. Found an old cabin. More neat stuff.
Rocketing towards Haines Junction you stumble across giant meadows of yellow wildflowers. Fireweed has been the dominant flower, so this change is a welcome one. Stopped to look there as well.
Yellow!
Found a rad old bridge. More glaciers. Plenty of rain. Sand dunes. Yes, sand dunes. No pics. I’ll see if I can snap some tomorrow.
Since I entered Whitehorse from a different way this time I got to see different things. That was nice. Whitehorse is still the same. Shower, dinner, pass out.
P.S. The Yukon Raven… giant bastards. More like the flying monkeys from Wizard of Oz, and just as much of an issue. They’ll steal, ruin, poke holes in your stuff. Love energy drinks for some reason. Some of them appear too big to fly. They’re everywhere.
Poked around Homer this morning. Had halibut tacos. Super touristy beach “town” on the spit.
Made it to the gas station to add layers JUST as it began pouring. And I mean dumping. See the video. It’s true!
After that I slogged through cold rain for quite a while. It finally cleared a bit an hour or so down the road. Not sure why, but my Gore-Tex pants let my bottom get wet. NOT COOL!
Detoured to Hope, AK instead of straight to Anchorage. It’s across the water from Girdwood, sorta. Very glad I did. Tiny town. Super old. Awesome chowder. Very strange gift shop. The road in/out alone made the trip worthwhile.
After that I went hunting glaciers. Found ‘em! Seriously radtastic. Then it got better.
So Beautiful
There is a short tunnel that takes you to a turnout where you’re essentially surrounded by glaciers. That isn’t even the cool part! There’s ANOTHER tunnel!
More Glaciers!
The second tunnel requires a toll, which I was originally going to skip. So glad I didn’t. It’s a one-way-at-a-time tunnel that trains also use. I believe it’s several miles through solid granite. You ride down the center of the train tracks. Takes about 6 minutes to go the full length.
When you emerge from this tunnel you find yourself in a place called Whittier, AK. Seems to be a fishing port, but is really cool to explore. There is an old military building (apparently there was a sub base) that’s been abandoned. Really cool rail yard. Giant muffler with my name on it for some reason. Another glacier. Worth the detour.
I had to wait a long time for the tunnel back due to a train. They also only go one way every half hour, and motorcycles go last. So, I sat and stared at a glacier while I was rained on… waiting.
And then the sunset. Absolutely amazing. Pictures don’t even come close to doing it justice.
Epic
I’m currently sitting at a fuel station in Girdwood. Still have about 45 minutes to ride, but wanted a quick break. Maybe a snack as well. Oh, and fuel. For the bike.
Additional comments from the present (Nov. 1, 2019): I spent a few final days with Matt & Drew in Anchorage. We did some exploring, and a LOT of nothing. It was quite nice. When I left, it was actually pretty odd to say goodbye. Being on my own again took a slight adjustment, but quickly felt normal again. There were definitely a few times I turned to say something to someone that wasn’t there. Good guys, those two.
July 14, 2019
Anchorage has been an interesting place to spend a few days, recharge the batteries, do some laundry… normal stuff.
Downtown is pretty cool. The mountain views are great. Otherwise, it’s just a smaller town of about 294,000 people.
Didn’t really do a whole lot while I’ve been here. Leaving for Homer tomorrow, and hoping the weather cooperates.
Choo Choo!
Hopefully there will be more interesting things to come…
July 15, 2019
I left Anchorage this morning with some light rain. Nothing too bad, but Alaska is finally feeling like what I expected. Of course, it would pour off and on all day, which was neat.
It took forever to get to Homer. Not because it’s far; it really isn’t. Mostly because I stopped constantly. Holy crap were today’s sights epic.
To get here you have to travel along Chickaloon Bay, through some state parks, by a national park. Obviously, all the awful things to look at. The Seward Highway is a pretty excellent drive.
In Girdwood, about 45 minutes out of Anchorage, I decided to take a detour. Found a gravel road, and followed it to a glacier view. The pictures don’t do any of this justice. There’s also a brewery there I’ll check on tomorrow. Girdwood is a ski resort town, and it looks the part.
After that I found a wildlife conservation center. It was sort of cheesy, but still cool. Saw brown bears. Hopefully the only ones of the trip. The rest of the animals, minus the deer, I’ve seen in the wild this trip. Oh, two bald eagles today! They’re so cool to watch.
The rest of the drive was pretty much ride ten feet, stop for a picture, ride ten feet, stop for a picture, etc. I did stop for lunch at a roadside food truck. Ok food with borderline creepy service. Way too attentive. Odd.
When you pull into Homer you drop down a hill with ridiculous views of Kachemak Bay. Seriously jaw dropping. Got a mix of sun & rain for my stop, which was nice.
Then I went to the end of the road, the spit. It’s a peninsula as far as I can tell, but a really skinny one. All the tourist type spots. Camping. More views that border on unbelievable.
Started pouring by this point, so I abandoned my camping plans in favor of a cheap room. Yeah, I’m lame. Oh well.
Hoping to poke around a bit before I head back to Anchorage tomorrow. One way in, one way out.
Today began with rain. So exciting. It’s been so hot, this was a welcome change.
Hit the road south in the rain heading towards Anchorage. It rained on and off for a bit, then was just overcast, and cold. Eventually, the sun came out again, but that wasn’t until about 40 miles from Anchorage.
Alaska continues to awe. The scenery is simply amazing. As you approach Denali national park it all changes again. The mountains are jagged, sharp, and look like they could cut the sky itself open. Tops are obscured by clouds, while ice drapes the sides in sections, waterfalls tumbling down in others. I could have stopped every three feet for pictures. So amazing.
Bridge
Stopped into 49th State Brewing where the bus from the movie “Into the Wild” is. It isn’t the actual bus, that is still, well… in the wild. This one is the movie used bus. Pretty neat to see. The inside had the story. Total trip.
Checked out the Denali visitor center. It was super interesting. Wish the weather had been better, but still a beautiful park.
SIGN!
After that we encountered a bunch of cars blocking the road. MOOSE! Saw a moose wandering around. Took a picture from far enough away before we left. It amazes me how massive they really are. It also amazes me that morons are following the moose, getting within 10 or so feet for a picture. Such a bad idea.
Moose in photo much larger than appears
Hauled to Anchorage from there. About 30 miles out of town Alaska changes again. It feels much less remote, and more like civilization.
The mountains are still epic. I’m still in awe. The river. The massive rocks reaching for the sky. The toughness of it all. Love it.
Staying at a hostel for a few days while I figure out my next move. Homer, probably.
This picture probably isn’t interesting to you, but it’s a picture of the night. The night is a thing I haven’t seen in weeks. Not since Liard. I’m so excited right now.
July 13, 2019
Today officially marks one month on the road.
2 countries
4 states
3 Canadian provinces
1 front tire
2 rear tires
Many fuels
6,270 miles covered
Innumerable memories made
We again interrupt your regularly scheduled programming to remind you that today is Podcast Wednesday! While that might not be a real thing, Episode 1 of our podcast dropped today, and it’s a good one.
We talk with a our friend Jason about his ultimate baseball road trip to visit every MLB stadium and learn that there are certain seats to avoid at Wrigley field before veering off-topic and discussing the perks of Japanese baseball, random retail experiences, unopened boxes, brick orientation, Jason’s upcoming Troubadour fundraiser, and more.
We’re also on Google Play Music. So basically, we’re all over the internet for the pleasure of your ear holes.
So be sure to check it out, and if you like it, give us a like. Maybe even subscribe if you’re feeling like you’re into it. Stay tuned in another two weeks for… PODCAST WEDNESDAY!
Ryan Cavalier 