Jan. 2, 2018
I don’t really know how to start today’s entry. A lot of emotion tied to today. I think I’ll start towards the end, like Tarantino would do.
On January 2, 2018 I crossed an item off my bucket list (2018 has been awesome, that’s 3 things knocked out already). I reached what many adventure riders consider the ultimate destination – Ushuaia. Also called Fin del Mundo, or End of the World.
Nestled between the Martial Mountains and the Beagle Channel, Ushuaia is a port town. The city itself isn’t amazing to look at in many ways, but the scenery is absolutely awe inspiring.
Ok, now back to the beginning…
This morning was sunny! I was amazed. And lulled into a false sense of warmth. I had my usual coffee and eggs for breakfast before donning my gear and hitting the road. The sun being out meant I’d choose to forgo my upper base layer and balaclava, which would prove a stupid choice.
It. Was. Freezing. Ranging between 5c and 9c all day. The wind wasn’t too bad at first, but then it kicked up something fierce. It wouldn’t be long before I was pulled over adding layers.
Typical of what I’d seen on Tierra del Fuego so far the landscape was fairly flat and barren. It eventually gave to gently rolling hills.
Even though it was frigid the clouds were amazing. Except when they were blocking the sun. Crazy how different a bit of light makes things.
I sped south from Cerro Sombrero to 257 towards San Sebastián, Argentina. I had another border to cross. A cold, but uneventful ride.
At the crossing I ran into the owner of the rental company I’m using and a group he’s been guiding. They’re about two days ahead of me. Good to chat for a while, because the lines at customs were very long today for some reason.
Buying gas in Argentina used the last of my cash, which I’m actually lucky to have had. The guy spotted me a few pesos to make sure I was topped off. I didn’t even think about my Argentine peso situation until just then. It worked out, though.
From there it was a “straight” shot down Route 3. I stopped in Rio Grande to use an ATM, accidentally finding my hotel for tomorrow. Rio Grande is definitely a bigger third word city. It also feels so chaotic and crowded compared to what I’ve become used to.
Oh, I should mention it has started to rain. Hard. Hard enough that it felt like someone was throwing rocks at my right leg the whole time. People don’t realize, but water can hurt!
As I pushed south the scenery started to change yet again. It became more of a forest with these amazing trees, all covered in moss. My pictures don’t do it justice. The forest got more dense as I went with some trees just trunks. So beautiful.
And it kept getting better. Lago Fagnano is a sight to behold. As you go around the lake you climb into mountains that are absolutely epic. Every turn has a hidden gem waiting. It got to the point where I couldn’t believe things could continue amazing me. They did.
The mountain road is pretty dangerous as evidenced by the two overturned semis I saw. Did not see either occur, just the aftermath. Scary stuff.
Every sign post counting down the distance to Ushuaia pulled me faster towards my goal. I could already feel a small seed of triumph growing. And then I saw the gate. THE gate to Ushuaia. I’d officially arrived. I pulled over for some pictures, but mostly to soak it in.
The city itself is chaos. I’m not sure there are actually traffic rules. It’s awesome! Even if the roads are absolutely destroyed. I enjoyed it so much I went back out for a bit after finding my hotel. A hotel that sits on the Beagle Channel. I can see Isla Navarino across the way.
I have four more riding days exploring parts north in the region, but it’s bittersweet being here. Ushuaia was the ultimate goal for me, and it was an amazing adventure getting here.
A few months ago I questioned whether it would even happen. You see, I hurt my shoulder pretty bad. Bad enough that I just didn’t know if I’d be able to ride. Luckily it got better with every day. Every ice pack. Every stretch.
Leading up to this I questioned myself. My abilities. My sanity. Solo isn’t easy to do to begin with. Solo with the terrains and challenges of Patagonia? It almost broke me. I’m so thankful to have made it here. Can’t wait to see what my final days have in store.
Ryan
Ryan Cavalier 