Dec. 26, 2017
Patagonia… you can’t turn a corner without being stopped dead in your tracks. It’s like the entire region is constantly trying to 1-up itself. Absolutely amazing.
Going to keep this short tonight… I’m hungry and dinner is open.
You always see pictures of those perfect ribbons of pavement in Europe or whatever part of the world, but you never necessarily get to them. Today, I got to one. This perfect set of perfect curves set in what amounts to a blip of a “town” on the Carretera Austral (the road I’ve been following since leaving Trevelin). A fitting reward for the last pavement before a full day of ripio.
Today wasn’t going to let me off easy, though. Today was going to make sure I was thrown a challenge. Towards the beginning of the ripio the gravel started to get really deep, and the bike started to get really hard to aim. Eventually it became 6-10 inches deep and the heavy bike plus me and gear was just too much. I came to a halt on an uphill turn.
I used every trick in the book, but the rear tire just would not find purchase and the gravel kept sucking the bike in whatever direction it wanted. I was working my tail off for every inch, and I probably got 3 feet in 15 minutes. Meanwhile, cars and trucks are just going around. Nobody seemed concerned.
Finally a family pulled up and asked if I was ok. I was out of breath, feeling beaten, and trying to figure out what I was gonna do when they offered to push me. Just at the top of the rise it got better. So, I accepted, they pushed, and I was on my way yet again. I wish I’d asked their names or been able to stop again, but I lacked the confidence in the deep gravel to not have another problem. Thank you mystery family. I owe my continued trip to you.
After that, in spite of being a full day of gravel it just kept getting better. Lago General Carrera is one of the most amazing lakes I’ve ever laid eyes on. Not exaggerating. It needs to be a place you see before you die. I don’t possess the vocabulary to adequately describe how blue it is. Fed by glaciers and rain it has some of the purest water in the world (probably… certainly tasted good).
I reached Puerto Tranquilo on the shores of the lake early enough for lunch and to catch a boat to tour the Capillas de Mármol, or Marble Caves. Again, words escape me. Absolutely incredible. So incredible they almost feel fake.
After a thorough soaking by decent sized waves and wind-flung water (that’s how I know the lakes tastes good, FYI) it was a short jaunt to my lodging for the next two nights.
I thought the guy was joking when he showed me my cabin. It’s insane. Big bed that looks out over the lake. Loft if I choose. Giant bathroom. Nuts. Absolutely nuts.
Tomorrow is a rest day for me, and much needed. If the weather is good I plan on riding to Parque Patagonia, a private park they are hoping to make a national park. If not, I’m cool with being lazy as well. The bike needs some minding anyhow.
Ok, short turned to long. Have a great night.
Ryan Cavalier 